In the midst of a growing health crisis due to the Omicron variant with thousands of Covid cases recorded in Paris , Giambattista Valli decided to offer us a film in place of a live show , where Spring 2022 Haute Couture was revealed simultaneously with ready-to-wear pre-fall 2022 . In this film the viewers became eyewitnesses of the savoir-faire of the designer and the philosophy of the brand , where craftsmanship and luxurious fabrics parade in an harmonious way whether it was a larger-than-life tulle gown or a tweed deux-pièces .
The combination of the two collections was not a coincidence at all , rather than a gamechanger , an invitation to meet the Valli DNA at the core . “ I thought , I want to take the viewers’ hand and walk them through all the floors of the maison, to show that whether it’s a candle, an haute couture dress, or a t-shirt, we put the same expertise into the making . ” , as the designer declared .
Valli’s profound knowledge and his reference at the past is pretty obvious ; a Givenchy and Cristobal Balenciaga essence , inspirational 60’s vibes , the hair style and the A-line dresses ; nevertheless he is taking a step forward , totally aligned with the needs of a contemporary woman . Something we ascertain by the presence of the cheetah print , the powerful figures dressed in suits and the rich colour pallet spanning from black to pink , from magenta to orange .
In a whimsical scenery , the sumptuous textures of the garments highlight the aesthetic of the brand . Taffeta , faille , guipure, embellished silver , tweed and the characteristic tulle extravagant gowns delivered straight the vision of the Valli feminine . A woman well aware of her romantic genes and her dynamic personality at the same time although being romantic doesn’t mean helpless at all ; feels more like a rebellious act in the era of raw reality and cynicism .
The use of orange colour either on a large scale or in details such as the lurex golden buttoned suits forebode optimism , the off-shoulder dresses draw attention to a part of the body that doesn’t shout distinct sexiness and the upper-body voluminous pieces reveal the legs wrapped in lavish hosiery ; the kind of those which Guy Bourdin and Helmut Newton would have hastened to photoshoot .
The dramatic eyeliner , the elongated figures and the protruding feathers composed a symphonic melody by a skilful conductor , Giambattista himself , to a prelude where models resembled mythic birds . Embodying successfully the females of our times ready to open their wings to fly to the destination of their undisclosed desires . Valli is not only a genius designer when it comes to craftmanship but also when it comes to emotional intelligence , born under the water sign of Cancer as me , he is the master of touching details and of the undisguised lyricism of the garments .
Glad to have met Giambattista Valli himself , such a charismatic designer and a kind human being .
Eleni Kadigkou Xx