Photo Courtesy of Schiaparelli
Since 2019 , when the House of Schiaparelli appointed Daniel Roseberry as artistic director , his creations draw the attention of the fashion crowd with numerous magazine covers , dithyrambic reviews and memorable red carpet appearances . But it wasn’t until Monday the 24th of January , where the designer kicked off the Paris Haute Couture Week , that he held his first live show for the house . When the collection , called an ” An Age of Discipline ” , began to unfold in front of the audience aroused ecstatic feelings and it was just the begining of an intergalactic journey to the Schiaparelli planet . The deliberate use of a-three-coloured pallet , black , white and the characteristic gold of the fashion house , in addition with the minimal lines left space for spectacular ornaments , sculptured jewelleries and accessories .
The subtraction of volumes and the lack of colour was anything but uninspired , the models were orbiting in an inventive brand new universe borrowing the rings of Saturn . The woman in this collection was a peculiar amalgam of the ancient times , like Egypt and ancient Greece , and the extraterrestial futuristic vision . She once was a priestess or a Catholic nun , obvious references like crosses and headpieces , kidnapped by the aliens to a-time-machine journey only to came back as Medusa , other times as a goddess or a hybrid of fictional and earthy creature . Haute Couture finds here its best expression , elegant silk dresses , velvet pants and organza garments imbued with engineering skills , accompanied by fine-arted equipment . This collection could grab you from the hand , yes those astonishing golden-sculptered coral-like hands , to a fashion realm no one ever touched down before .
Nonetheless inspiration was not limited to the aforementioned , as Mariacarla Boscono were slowly walking like a fountain which were gushing gold , felt like the monumental moment when Duchamp inserted his ready-mades to the artworld .To continue the baguettes made of gold , the conical busters , the radial crown and the jaw-dropping golden moulded nose accessory linked to the engagement of Schiaparelli and Surrealism . But what left the A-list guests speechless was a golden-head carried as a bag , an apparent reminiscent of Contsantin Brancusi’s ” Sleeping Muse ” .
The collection boasted elegance , where the contribution of the otherworldly elements harmonized with the artisanal tailored clothes and the yet-daring shapes did not annul the sophisticated craftsmanship used . “We kept saying ‘Planet Schiaparelli’: I wanted to do something that looked totally unlike anybody else. Nothing else should look like this.” , Roseberry said . Like the dearly departed Thierry Mugler , Daniel Roseberry breaks the mould by following his instinct which leads him to an uncharted endless galaxy of creativity .
Eleni Kadigkou Xx